Sidecar Doughnuts, Los Angeles
The huckleberry, for example, is sold as a “cake doughnut”. What the heck is that? If I wanted cake, I’d buy cake
Doughnuts. They have got to be one of my favourite sweet treats. And when I say “treat,” I’m lying — whenever the opportunity arises, cheat day or not, I will have one. Anywhere, anytime, any place. With any doughnut, the dough is always the most important thing. This might sound obvious, but if this part isn’t incredible, the rest suffers. My go to is a filled, light, and airy rise that you can pull apart to reveal softness and chew, piped with raspberry or strawberry jam (homemade, if possible), then rolled in sugar — the old school way. I won’t say no to a doughnut with a hole in the middle either, simply glazed. This strips everything back to the bare minimum and really allows you to scrutinise and see the dough in all its glory. Sometimes over the top fillings steal the limelight and become unnecessary, causing you to lose sight of the bake itself.
America does excessive well, and with Sidecar Doughnuts my concern was whether the ingredients used for the fillings were up to scratch. Do the showy toppings deliver, or do they detract from the doughnut? Do they need to go back to basics? Quite a lot to think about — all of which crossed my mind as I tested quite a few varieties. Everything in life is subjective, of course, but I’m also looking at this from a baker’s perspective (I’ve trained in bread, too). I visited on two occasions. The first time I only took two doughnuts. The second time, I boxed up at least five different options.
Let’s start with the Dubai Chocolate Malasada. It’s described as their “classic pillowy soft” malasada filled with a luxe pistachio… I’m stopping right here. There was no way I could taste any pistachio. Don’t try to fob us off. It could easily have been almond extract with green food colouring, or a cheap pistachio paste. It’s marketed as “Dubai chocolate” — if you’re going to create more hype, at least be truthful. Yes, the dough itself had softness, but the filling let it down completely. I also question the quality of the chocolate used for the ganache. It’s hard for me to believe it was Valrhona. Overall, it didn’t hit the jackpot. The Vanilla Bean Glazed, however, was the best of the bunch — well risen and simple, with just the glaze. You’re able to judge it properly without too much going on.
On doughnut day two, I decided to go back — my friends agreeing that buying only a few doughnuts simply wasn’t enough. Okay, you all have a point… but this backfired immensely. Every single bake (apart from the maple bacon) was dense. I ended up wasting them all. Looking back, the huckleberry, for example, is sold as a “cake doughnut”. What the heck is that? If I wanted cake, I’d buy cake. Sorry, but this is a failure — and this was the issue with all the others too. This is not a doughnut, folks. Save the spiel with tasting notes outlining flavour, texture, and batter type. It’s a pointless exercise. Doughnuts should be light and fluffy. End of story.
La Reine Gourmande is a professionally trained chef, former dancer, and lifelong food obsessive with a deep passion for haute cuisine and global gastronomy. She has dined her way through the world’s top restaurants while honing her culinary skills at L’École Ferrandi in Paris and the Ashburton Cookery School in the UK. Blending her love for food and fashion, she offers a unique perspective on what to eat — and what to wear — on your next culinary adventure.
