Hemicycle – Paris

Hemicycle – Paris

A good start at Hemicycle. After eating at bistros for a few days and then returning to the stars, it was immediately clear just how much sophistication is present. Lime and white melon lured us in with a confident introduction to Hemicycle’s snacks. The butter for...
Allard – Paris

Allard – Paris

Unbeknown to me, I might have walked into a tourist‑trap restaurant. Part of the Ducasse empire, Allard is an old‑school bistro known for casual French classics. It all sounds good on paper. Unfortunately, I must have ordered the most uninteresting thing on the menu —...
Le Bon Saint Pourcain

Le Bon Saint Pourcain

Chef Mathieu is the kind of chef I can relate to – he puts his head down and delivers real, delicious food with substance. There is no tasting menu (a sensible move). You will find all the à la carte choices on a blackboard, so just be sure you know your French so you...
Ambos – Paris

Ambos – Paris

As I did my research about where to go for a kind of casual, bistro‑style dining experience, Ambos showed up on my radar. I don’t go to restaurants as a clear strategy just because a chef is famous or has been on TV. What matters is the cookery, not the fame. You...
Colvert – Paris

Colvert – Paris

My quest continues as I explore more of the bistro scene in Paris. I made a firm point on this trip not to visit any Michelin-starred restaurants (more on that another time). Sometimes—or quite often—you simply prefer to sit down without pressure, without pristine...
Epicure – Paris

Epicure – Paris

We managed to get a table here at the last minute (thank you, Adrian). Still awarded its three stars, but now with a new chef, it was going to be interesting to compare this visit to my last in 2016, when Eric Frechon was still running the show. The dining room is...