My quest continues as I explore more of the bistro scene in Paris. I made a firm point on this trip not to visit any Michelin-starred restaurants (more on that another time). Sometimes—or quite often—you simply prefer to sit down without pressure, without pristine white tablecloths, but instead at a wooden table with a few dents, where you can unwind and relax with accessible, recognisable, perhaps hearty dishes, rather than facing a ten-course tasting menu on a Monday evening.
You must admit that this type of dining is on its way out. From a personal point of view, my tastes have shifted decidedly in this direction. In my early twenties, I was obsessed with ticking off Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, and I did a pretty good job of it. But one day, I sort of “woke up”, so to speak. These thoughts are probably better saved for another story or blog post, but in essence, I’m now more drawn to casual dining—unless I’m absolutely blown away by someone like Martino Ruggieri.
This is exactly why I’m dipping my toes into places such as Colvert. À la carte is becoming a dying breed; if you want to eat just two or three courses, it’s increasingly difficult to do so. The menu here is just right—small and focused. Yes, there is a tasting menu option, but the key detail is that there is still a straightforward à la carte available. I now filter out many restaurants that don’t offer one. Chefs need to understand that just because they want to serve only tasting menus doesn’t mean we all agree.
Here, I can take a pâté en croûte with a side salad as my starter (an accomplished one, in fact). And because I’m not tied into eating too much, one main course is more than enough. No, I’m not forced to have a dessert, and no, I don’t have to spend my night marching to someone else’s drum. Something particularly special here is their mallard duck—cooked extremely well, with fig elements that work effectively on the plate. The duck was as soft as it should be, the skin perfectly rendered. It was superb. Its sourcing clearly plays a major role, and the chef knows exactly how to handle it. I would return just for this dish alone.
If you’re looking for a local, informal neighbourhood spot in Saint-Germain, Colvert will certainly do the trick. It’s very much a restaurant tied to the area, the kind of place where you can wander in and enjoy a night on your own terms. Do book in advance, though—there aren’t many tables.
