We were back… I told you I did not want to wait too long. We have continued to emphasise just how special this place is, for the whole entire year! Terra The Magic Place was in my top restaurants for 2024, and I could only count them all on one hand. Of course we had to return one year later, with a new menu to try and to visit our friends Heinrich and Gisela, there was no way I was not going to return. This is the only restaurant that manages to pull on my heart strings. You come here for Heinrich’s unique cuisine, holding such an identity you will not taste anything else like it in the world. Alongside this, he is a truly humble and inspiring chef, an all round personable and nice person too.
We found it more formal in the dining room this time around- Were they reaching for the big three? It seemed slicker and sharper, the waiters were all in suits, not the casual attire we saw last time- To clarify, there was nothing wrong before with this, I thought it suited the place extremely well. If they are going for three, they completely deserve it, and even if they are not, we do not care because they do not need the Michelin 3-star stamp of approval. It is already there in my eyes.
Attention to detail already started as I spied the waiter using some anti bacterial gel before folding our napkins, for people like us, this we appreciated a lot. The snacks were moreless the same as last year with a few variations such as the beetroot macaron with barbecue glaze and red onion, it was a delicious few bites with the balance of sweetness managed perfectly.
The first dish of in lovage salt marinated rainbow trout, trout mousse and vegetable juice with chickpea cracker- We knew we were back eating the food of the herb master, every element in this bowl was working as a unit and you could feel the strong identity of the chef. Vegetal presence and strong in essence with the trout waiting in the wings. Distinctive, refined, and flavourful. Pure nobility, and the gnocchi alongside it was outstanding.
Emulsion brown trout with dill camomile and heather- Just look at those colours! This was superbly light, you could taste the herbs, taste and texture is at the forefront. The camomile hints came through pleasingly.
The bread as usual was accomplished in the texture, yogurt butter served on the side with a tiny fleck of salt on the top, adorned with more herbs and flowers, finished with that mind-blowing pine oil swimming beside it happily in the bowl. At this point in my meal, I have in my head herbs, herbs, herbs. They are so powerful here and impactful, and the dish that came with the bread could not have outlined this more if it tried. An unusual looking raviolo arrived, with a supreme, shiny glaze. This dish was the boss… It was sticky, sweet, what a texture and what a combination. Absolutely amazing. Herbs are the pillar, the foundation of excellence at Terra The Magic Place, the rest of the ingredients take cue and follow on behind, but do not misunderstand me, they are never ever lost.
Does everybody love the colour black? I do… This next dish is a strong definition of ‘fashion’ you could call it a dish from the runway! Bold, black, high in contrast giving fascinating impact. Ying and yang brought together in tranquility. Trout at its finest, with buttermilk foam, chive, pea pods, cooked barbecue style.
Now this next dish- The black trumpet tartelette with alpine cheese and winter truffle- “Oh my life…” How to capture the mountains in a couple of bites. Pine springs to mind and cheese, ultra delicate work here, yet giving to me rustic fondue and raclette vibes. Every detail had been considered by the chef before this was created, I am sure. The use of the black trumpet mushroom was splendid.
The beef dish from last year made me stop in my tracks, this year we have a local duck. Strong in flavour, tasty but not too gamey which is good. The edible flowers were not useless on this dish, (Obviously!). Everything was tasty, but if I must outline something, it is that this might be one of the weaker dishes. (But that does not mean it is not delicious!). The mastery of potato on the side of this plate, is standout.
The recognisable blue box was coming next, with a sea buckthorn and fennel drink, elderflower foam, I found this to be a digestive drink, and it fits in well with the rest of the tasting. The zing coming from the raspberry tart due to the popping candy was fun, pine spruce yogurt inside topped with dried rose petals. Crackling and sharp, sweet with defined crispiness. Delicious.
Oh no, it is coming an end once more, and what no better way to finish than ending on a high with a brand-new dessert. I mentioned in my story last year just how clever Heinrich is when it comes to the pastry section. It seems now the desserts here are the ones that I can really relate to the most on 2-star level, and he had done it again… With a dessert of rice from Termeno, Romerhof with wheat grass ice cream and rose pearls. We also had the white sphere from Gewürztraminer terminum. Rose and vanilla notes stood out to me, this dessert was different to anything I have seen both in look and different in taste, something marvellous that I had not come across before! So clever, with exceptional skill on show, so light too, I am thankful to be able to eat it all.
The tea ceremony of 7 aromatic herbs, I was looking forward to once more, served with the green apple and woodruff marshmallows (Thank you for keeping these on the menu) And a praline of lupin coffee from Antervivo.
One year on and Terra The Magic Place is still at the same level and rightly so. It still holds a special place in my culinary adventures, and I shall continue to give to them my full support. I love this truly special place, and everybody is kind and welcoming, just doing what they love to do, and that is delivering top-level, heartfelt creations and cuisine.
