I last visited Tate Dining Room in 2018, (Today as we speak the pictures popped up as a reminder on my phone!) and here I was back with a fresh new look in the dining room after a refurbishment. When it comes to chefs, I have a soft spot for women doing things their way and showing the industry what they are made of. I do not like to make a massive point though and differentiate between male and female chefs, (why should we??) We really must stop doing that because everybody is equal, and understanding how the industry runs, the girl power inside of me naturally wants to support and lift them up. I shared a nice moment with chef Vicky and her team, discussing everything from products, dining trends, and grasping a tighter understanding on Peking Duck. As I went on a journey through the menu, a couple of things were incredibly clear to me: Her love for Abalone and Tofu, even an ‘Ode to mushroom’ included a reference to it in the look of the dish. Chef Vicky has a gentle touch, yet do not misunderstand me, the precision is on the contrary sharp, focused, and the tiny details that matter, have not been forgotten. Unfortunately, I was slightly jet lagged, so with shaky hands I accidentally dropped a couple of these perfect elements I am referring to, missing my mouth as they fell onto my lap as I took a bite into the tiny snacks at the start. “Hope nobody saw that” I murmured to myself. A bit hard not to when the plate gets taken back to the kitchen with those perfectly round discs on it and nothing else!!
About Abalone, the one they used here is from South Africa, slowly braised which I rather enjoyed. I have not particularly been that impressed by this product, all the times I have eaten it, (I know to say this, as it is such a delicacy could have me ousted from the whole of Asia) even Japan. But here, I gained a new perspective, and I was thankful for that. The menu was personal, with my name on it, and at the back was a tribute to all the staff that works here. This place cares, I have not seen that on a menu in very recent times, it made me say “ah how nice is that?” A heartfelt touch. I saw a ‘tea pairing’ menu and this enticed me in, having some of them cold was a first for me, I did prefer them to be hot (with the hot food) but nevertheless I found myself warming to them! (Yes, I had to include the pun) You always need to try new things and discover or you will never know.
As I worked my way through these ‘5 moments’ I could feel the delicacy to the attention in the plating, it is careful and considered with skilled hands. The scallop was beautiful in the cookery and the kumquat Grenobloise sauce matching- Which for somebody who isn’t too keen on fruitiness against the scallop, it certainly worked for me. It was delicious as well. Two bread courses were served during the lunch, using tofu for the ‘butter,’ giving notes of cheese, pairing well against the sourdough (I thought this could be sourer).
The dish of the day had to be the ‘ode to duck’: Roasted Beijing duck with five spice, strawberry plum duck jus served with a duck wonton. The skin was magnificent and ignoring what the locals think about it being too ‘fatty,’ come on it is duck skin… There is going to be some fat and that is what gives it flavour! ‘Fat is flavour!’ But the important thing to note is there was not too much, meaning that it was not greasy. When you feel like you need some breathing space from the richness of it, you can dig into the bowl alongside and eat the elegantly made duck leg wontons, each in one bite, sat in a liquid designed to give you an extra push! The balance of all the elements working together, the wonton not feeling like a separate dish- It was all complete and working as one.
Dessert to finish was a Lychee rice pudding with raspberry sorbet, in sakura yogurt meringue and a sakura tea sauce, an ultimate ‘Ode to Sakura.’ This was light and finished off the menu perfectly, I could eat all of it, and the tea sauce was an unusual accompaniment, which made the dish stand out, amongst some typical elements that you find in pastry.
It is not often that I opt for a tasting menu lunch or set lunches these days, but I made an exception at Tate Dining Room. It was not overbearing with too much going on or to eat and the balance was right for me. I will keep following their path to see what they do next! See you soon team.
