This lunch time I popped in to try Callum’s new Public House in Paris. I fancied a British pie and what no better choice than The Pie Room offering there.
Let’s start with one very important food item- Mash potato…
It was no where to be seen. How can you eat a British pie without mash potato?? Perhaps the French are non the wiser but for me it was a big deal. Served instead with salad, fair enough a little bit of health on the side which I appreciated, but I was yearning for some mash potato to soak up the gravy and eat alongside the pie. In true British style…
The pie (Chicken, chestnut mushroom, and tarragon) was presented to me, and the sauce poured all over it. “Like this,” the waiter said looking proud. I didn’t want to take away his moment… But hang on a minute, do I not get to choose how much sauce I put onto my pie and at what stages? This is an important detail. What would Jay Rayner say about this I wondered… Then something catastrophic happened, the waiter took the sauce boat away. Sacré bleu… At this point I am feeling uneasy. Would this happen in England? No. And if it did, we would all have something to say about it. But that is the point we are not in England here.
The waiter came to ask me how I was getting on and I was honest, I said it was missing mash potato. Looking slightly confused at me he exclaimed: “We have mash potato with the sausage and mash on our menu. ” Well obviously… A better answer may have been, I can ask the kitchen if we can serve some for you to go with your pie. But no nothing.
In terms of the pie, the tarragon was not coming through unfortunately, but the structure of the pie was formed ok, and the pastry was made fine, but I didn’t see the masterful pie making crimps and presentation that Callum can create. I also missed some kind of sauce inside of the pie, it was quite dry. The chicken however was tender, mushrooms cooked to the right point. The gravy, a fundamental element to bring the dish together was not particularly memorable. Frankly speaking I did not see Callum in this pie making… Something felt very wrong here.
Next, I ask myself this question: Was it incredibly delicious and was I desperate to go back for more? Sadly not. It was just ok. And a British pie should never be just ‘ok’ It needs oomph.
I can fully appreciate that in Paris you are catering for the Parisians, I know as I used to be one, but the pie offering here was trying to be too posh. Pies are not really supposed to be posh when it comes to taste are they? Don’t bother to try and deconstruct one. We will not be friends.
Callum, give us mash potato, add some of that glorious British spirit, tis all I am asking. Don’t try to change something that is already so good, no matter where you are making your pies. I think I will go back to England now on that note.
