Pavyllon

Paris

"Having a kitchen stay open without any fuss or rushing you is a privilege"

"Always consistent every time we visit"

8 March, 2024

This is one of my regulars when in Paris, it is always consistent every time we visit, and they are open till late for a late-night feast if you prefer. Having a kitchen stay open without any fuss or rushing you is a privilege, especially at this level of cuisine. I always look forward to starting with the Pavyllon salty butter and bread, the small snacks also alongside with the aperitif. The draw to eating here is their countertop dining, sitting here rather than at a table elevates the experience and this is where you need to be. You can relax and sit back, be comfortable and watch the action of the chefs in front of you preparing your high level and quality cuisine. All the dishes on the menu have significant substance and I am confident that they all deliver no matter what you decide to choose. (I have been here enough times now to know this) As usual it is better to opt for the a la carte menu and make your choice as to which creations you wish to savour. There are dishes that are signatures which will always be on the menu and ones that change depending on the season. There are also some lovely set menus incorporating these dishes if you wish to eat more and not have to think. A couple of highlights below include:

The Badaboum style egg (A classic) with oscietre caviar from Prunier, sorrel and smoked eel toast. Take a mix of each element and eat it altogether, it is uncomplicated, rich, and delicious. This is always on the menu we have seen, and for good reason!

Next- Warm potatoes glazed with lovage mayonnaise, served with kombu gel, julienne seaweed and cucumber. An unusual looking dish, bringing an understated elegance.

The poached orzo pasta, in a beef marrow broth was surprisingly light and delicate bringing an extra touch with the caviar. I enjoyed the texture of the pasta.

The side salad as simple as it was, had been prepared with care and detail. This gave us a pause between dishes.

Overall, I will always say yes, go to Pavyllon, as it ticks so many boxes and you can rely on the consistency and confidence of the cookery. The food is not overly complex here, but the products and interesting flavour combinations are definitely daring.

Take your seat at the counter and come as you are. Arrive in a smart/casual coat and thin cashmere scarf, complimented with two tone glasses. Leather trousers can be chic.