It is often hard to find a two-star restaurant that strikes the perfect balance between service and cookery. Sometimes (or ever, with great exception) you don’t want an arrogant, white-table-clothed arena to play in; instead, you want to feel welcomed and relaxed—somewhere you can sit down, take a huge deep breath, and forget about what is going on around you, to escape for a moment and completely be yourself with no pretences. (Add on a glass of champagne!) I found this here at Palais Royal. I favoured the atmosphere; if you ask me, this is how I want to be served: professionally, but in a relaxed way. It is not a crime to crack a joke or smile, and we got that too. Instantly, we all felt at ease, knowing it was going to be a night that we could settle into without judgement.
I am not one to complain about the quantity of an aperitif; however, we did start off big and bold. (Go big or go home!) This can make a lot of diners happy, and it reminds me that in Greece, the portions are larger than your average. A half portion of everything that was served would have been perfect. If the chef could balance those, then they would reach an even higher perfection alongside harmony, not forgetting that this sets the tone, ensuring the rest of the meal is achievable and you are able to eat everything comfortably. The chef’s version of Greek mezedes were refined sharing pleasures, which are difficult to nail in terms of elevation. How do you take spanakopita and make it gastronomic, yet still flavoursome and refined? The chef managed it, but it was a course on its own! Look at the size of it! Time for the bill and go home! Ok, no, just kidding. Taste-wise, everything gave me a renewed sense of quality and standard, and it was all delicious.
For the lobster, I can only describe this dish as a perfectly synchronised orchestra, everything on this plate playing so well together: the crisp potato, little pops of acidity, the knock-out gnocchi, and the ever-so-delicate lardo draped over to cover. There is careful consideration for the lobster and its companions, pushing out high skill all around this plate.
Shock horror—the lamb was not coming from Greece! And they do lamb exceptionally well in that country. I was slightly disappointed about it, but the cuisson of this French lamb is still present in my mind; the fat on it was spectacular, and I don’t use this word very often. The salad was certainly not lazy alongside, the sauce shining right back at me, the reduction clear to see. There were also some sweetbreads hidden in the salad.
Being able to witness, in front of you next, is a masterclass in pastry, but because of the mammoth mezedes start, I could not eat everything and enjoy the amount of work and thought that was present. In fact, I struggled, unable to finish. I was particularly drawn to the wicked, witchery-looking chocolate work; for sure, there is talent and knowledge where the pastry section is concerned. I was surprised and intrigued, not having come across anything like this before in any shape or form. This is what makes a chef stand out in the crowd. You could see the expertise with taste and texture fulfilled. It just would have been nice if I could have eaten everything.
Palais Royal should be on your list to visit in the 2-star category, it is worth it, but as I look back, do I really remember it? Is it truly memorable? It didn’t knock my socks off like Chef Martino Ruggieri did, I still think about his cookery months, years afterwards, whereas here I didn’t get the same sensations. Nevertheless, for Greek cuisine taken to a whole new level, it is an experience to tick off your list.
