Is it bad for me to say that I do not really remember this restaurant? In a sense that it should have left a lasting impression. This does not often happen to me at two-star level, but this one really did get lost in the wind. There are times when chefs try so hard to be technically perfect with everything small and precise on the plate, looking fabulous but the taste and wow factor is missing. I am not saying that this was entirely the case here because there were some ok dishes, I just lost interest. Edible silver leaf can only go so far, or not anywhere at all mind. If I am comparing to other two-stars close-by this was weaker in comparison. I felt like the food was trying way too hard with a lot of processes, promises and presentation being important at the forefront. But presentation and theatre come after taste always. I do not feel the need to talk about every single dish, but a few comments below:
The Caprese is a classic, this was one of the best dishes. It had an exciting balance of flavour between sweet and salt, captured well.
The submarine risotto was not the best I have had in Milan, there is competition to see who the best is but unfortunately this did not win the race. We have had better.
Quail, pumpkin almonds, and coffee- A lot of work and care has gone into this plate of food that is clear to see, but that’s about it. If the taste doesn’t knock your socks off then there is no point in spending so long on it.
I am not sure what the lemons on the table are bringing, more presentation? The dessert was underwhelming.
Nobody really cares about silver leaf these days, it does not bring anything.
In summary, the dishes unfortunately were not memorable and everything here was too careful and strict, everybody almost afraid to make a mess (A good mess) We need to loosen the bolts and unleash the flavour, not spending too much time fancy prancing around making sure everything is precise and where it should be, this was my takeaway from this restaurant. I would sooner have something less perfect in look but maximised in taste. Bring us the wow factor in flavours and not just clean presentation. I noticed on their website that the restaurant emerges as a beacon of ‘elegance and culinary expertise’ Since when does any chef claim they are experts? Not a clever idea to sing your own praises. We are not experts because this is never-ending learning. The journey is nowhere near or ever complete in gastronomy. I left disappointed.
