Man Wah is the only restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental that has managed to keep its status and star intact. It has been twelve years now, whereas in that time many restaurants globally have not managed to survive. This should make us respect even more the grand chefs of our lifetime and those who are still here, showing us how it is done. Ironically, as I write this, last night I went back more than ten years and wasn’t surprised to see how many restaurants that were once three- or two-star establishments are either gone, no longer here, or have had their stars taken away completely. Some are still operating, but only as a shadow of their former selves. What happened? Things changed, they crumbled, or they gave the stars back. Mandarin Bar and Grill has lost theirs, leaving the Cantonese restaurant to take control.
It is doing just that. The room is beautifully done and has undergone refurbishment, with deep cyan‑blue walls giving off a different mood in the evening versus the day. At night, the setting becomes darker, elegantly moody, allowing the lights of the city to shine through as you peer out over Hong Kong, with breathtaking views from the 25th floor. The interiors have been handled well.
With such an atmosphere, the food needed to pull through, and it did. A Cantonese feast awaited us, beginning with prawn toast and moving confidently into the Chinese barbecue: a portion of roasted suckling pig could not be denied — the Man Wah way. The skin was in full command, remarkably crisp, each small square melting away with ease, just like magic. You will want more of them, so try to be disciplined, as it could get ugly — it is very easy to order this repeatedly. Simply superb technique is on display.
The meal was graceful from start to finish, the service flowing naturally with just the right amount of intervention. Professional in approach, yet genuinely warm. The all‑round experience you hope for when eating out is well delivered. Delicious Cantonese variety, handled with know‑how, a backdrop to match, complemented by staff who know how to serve you. I do think we scored tonight. If it can be like this on every visit, then it looks like we have succeeded.
