As of late we have been disheartened by the number of mediocre experiences having passed our way in hospitality. Meal after meal passes by and what can you take away from them? Often, we go home and say, “that was a waste of time” or “that was overpriced,” but it is happening a lot. There are only a few restaurants that you can count on one hand and say that they really are restaurants. There is food everywhere, chefs opening places all the time, but what is it that makes you stand out in a world full of noise? Maison Ruggieri boasts now two stars, but this is not a two star as you would normally recognise it. There is no stuffy atmosphere, no stern glares looking your way as you sit down, you feel like you are right at home but about to eat some extraordinary food in a uniquely, wonderful place.
There is a new wave amongst what people want these days, we are coming away from snooty, uptight establishments where you are afraid to stand up and go to the toilet. People are now saying no to being told how they should eat. It was so warm and welcoming here as soon as we stepped foot in the door, the word Maison is really fitting. The chef would come to the table, serve, and tell us stories about how the dishes came to light, this was such a small detail, but his care and dedication elevated the experience. This was a natural one and just being in the moment with him was genuine and rare for a restaurant of this level. Saying that this restaurant was ‘good’ or ‘amazing’ is not enough, it deserves more which I am still trying to figure out how to describe this to you. I was left speechless which I can tell you quite honestly, that happens rarely or never. I am still thinking about it, ticking away in my mind. The approach to this experience was more akin to being in the countryside where the service is much better than in capital cities normally. I was swinging on my chair without a care in the world towards the end of the night, after a lot of high-level wine and beverages! I was merry, I felt comfortable. We spent a good six hours here; the time just flew because we were having such a ball.
It is clear as day that the team are incredibly special people, and they should be immensely proud. Just seeing how they ‘dance’ around the room and interact, my faith in restaurants has officially been restored. There is drive, passion and a fire burning bright. The food is not like anything I have tasted to date, it has a unique approach and different to anything else out there. Before I came, I decided to not look at the menu or read the website, just to walk in blind to be able to forge an opinion without observing or seeing anything beforehand.
It was always going to be a la carte given the choice, so we went in this direction with the courses. We lost track a little bit as we were completely spoilt and ended up eating a lot more food than expected, but I am so glad that we did. This is officially up there with the absolute best. The dishes tell a story, and they deliver said story from the plate to your tastebuds in ways you cannot imagine.
The first small beginning was an intriguing start of what was to come…
Then we follow with watermelon- marinated sardine, sea water, cucumber ice cream and black olives. There is a charming story behind this, but you must visit to have the privilege of being told it! The combination of the watermelon with that little bit of salt to bring it alive, the cucumber ice cream bringing a kind of sweetness, along with the delicate, but bold, savoury sardine. You would think “What the hell” looking at this from above, but the trio worked in glorious harmony with one another. The story behind creating this dish added a special detail. I more than loved it.
Now, I am not joking, the sauce on the next dish, was possibly the best sauce I have had all year if not ever. I will never forget it. I got to the point where etiquette flew out the window and I started to eat from the serving spoon directly from the bowl. (Frown all you like) It was highly addictive. If I did a stage here, I would come away being the best sauce maker in all of Paris, even the world. (Ok going a bit too far.) Or not! I would make sacrifices to eat this dish. It is called- In Tomato Butter. (With Alessandro) This is rice pasta accompanied by small basil madeleines. Sounds simple, but wait until you taste it…
Next, something I never did taste or hear of- Turbot bacon, shellfish, and fennel. (Like in Tuscany) (With Noemi) Imagine the skin of the turbot turned into a version of Lardo di colonnata. It was showed to us before being placed onto the plate. Super interesting… Simplicity is here, with nothing to hide behind. The products are in full view so there is a big expectation to deliver. And of course it did within the first bite. Exceptional.
One thing that stood out here as well was the bread. It is not unusual to have choice and new ones appearing during a meal, but it felt different this time. Real thought and care were implemented both into the baking itself and the presentation, but you could feel yourself going on a bread journey. There was something extra whether that was an emotion or a thought conveying through the bread to you. This was bread with meaning and purpose. It is not just- “Here is your bread, enjoy.” And I was happy there were no bread courses, this is not happening in Europe, it is an American thing mainly and I have seen it crop up in the UK as well, which annoys the hell out of me. Bread is not a course; it is a way of life! Touching on the butter as well, soft as silk, smooth, salty, creamy. A dream.
To tease you a little bit with one of the desserts- taglioni suzette style. What a great idea this dish was, a take on the crepe suzette, using taglioni, flambéed at the table with grand marnier and accompanied with honey ice cream. It was just brilliant. The chef accepted the challenge to also make a gluten free version; nothing was going to deter him! We were impressed.
We need to leave some intrigue… And if I take you through every single dish, this story will be far too long! You will see more photographs of the other dishes in the gallery below so you can imagine with your eyes… All I can say is, go and see the magic for yourself. I hope it continues to thrive because this is going to become my regular home in Paris. Merci team, you have created a real standout in the world.
