I took a stroll around Kensington today and wandered in for a leisurely lunch at The Holland. This is a family owned, charming neighbourhood pub, that is serving not your usual average ‘pub food’, instead they have a chef behind (And in front) of the operation, who strives to deliver simple but tasty, ingredient driven cuisine. It is about time that pubs take their food seriously, gone are the days of mediocre frozen god knows what, dished up in a flash, just seen as a secondary to drinking. Je déteste Wetherspoons…
I was greeted warmly at the door, and I asked if I could sit outside, signs of spring were finally showing! The menu looked pleasing to the eye, only a couple of dishes within each section, which is exactly how it should be. The Scottish langoustines had to be taken, they arrived with the shell and heads still intact, with a small squeeze of lemon on the side accompanied by a small bowl of aioli. Fresh and simple, a desirable choice from the menu.
I decided to order the bread after this, and it was generous in size (I was given five thick slices) paired with black garlic and olive oil. Wonderfully strong garlic counterbalanced with the oil, this is a good pairing. The bread itself had spring in the crumb and a crisp pleasing crust.
Next, we are onto the main course. Normally with chalk stream trout, it can be disappointing, but this was not a complete disaster. Paired with rhubarb vierge and wild garlic, the skin of the trout was crisp, and the dish conveyed freshness and lightness. The trout was cooked perfectly. This dish left room for me to take a dessert.
And what a deliciously moreish dessert this was. I took the miso chocolate brownie and crème fraîche. This brownie was not messing around… It was a strong contender and one of the best brownies I have had in a while. The flavour was packed in here, with superb execution still being soft and gooey in the middle. The height on this was good and the crème fraîche vital to cut through that richness and delicious saltiness. A high-level brownie.
This pub is an asset to the area, and if it keeps delivering food at this level with a seasonal changing menu there is no excuse not to return. All pubs should have a great chef behind them as standard because it is not just about going to the pub for a drink anymore. The Holland can be a regular haunt if you are a local, that is for sure. But even if you are not, you can still pass the time here having a delicious lunch whilst visiting the area.
