We know the Paris site very well so of course we stopped by to check out Pavyllon in London, which is new, housing itself at Four Seasons, Park Lane. The concept is the same, grab your seat at the counter, it is the best way to enjoy the experience. What is not the same is the atmosphere and the dining room, you just know you are in London and not Paris, there is that significant difference, which sounds obvious but that brings its own personality. Whichever city you prefer boils down to personal preference. The menu resembles the same, we took again the Badaboum egg (Are you surprised?) For the readers who have not yet read the Paris story, it is one of Yannick’s signature dishes: Egg with prunier oscietra caviar, sorrel, Salish smoked salt, salmon cream. This is a ‘must have’ always.
The toasted pike bread next, this was not the most impressive dish out of the meal, but it was a stepping stone for the others that followed.
Lobster tail cooked in a red wine bisque served with croutons and fresh parsley: Here they know how to cook premium products with flair, effortlessly.
Roasted duck magret with sweet, marinated daikon radishes: Soft, tender, succulent duck with a thin veil of daikon, another excellent dish.
The star here though this time was the lamb cutlet with green shiso coulis and a smooth anchoïade, it should never disappear off the menu. A generous pool of green shiso paired with a small, salty kick of the anchoïade to meld with the lamb, the cutlets were exceptional in quality. Thick, lean, and slightly fatty and cooked exactly how they should be, a gorgeous browning on the outside especially. This was a wonderful dish indeed, delivering maximum flavour.
When you see the Pavyllon chocolate soufflé on the menu, don’t be a fool and ignore it, order it right away! You have that recognisable French attention to detail and execution on this, using the best chocolate. It is delicious.
Yannick’s Pavyllon restaurants are no gimmick, they deliver and once you go regularly or even after one visit you will start to see the pattern and get a feel for his style of cookery. For me they stay true to displaying the product in simple yet refined dishes, bringing some daring combinations and interest. There are not too many elements on the plate, the dishes are accessible to everyone in my opinion.
