Having been here at the same time as last year, I wanted to come back to try to get a different perspective for dinner. And this time not on my own. Lunch last year was a solo venture with no wine, and I felt Kol was more suited to the nighttime with a good bottle from our cellar.
We started off in their bar downstairs and I introduced myself slowly to a Mescal cocktail with their Mountain Man 16. I am normally always drinking gin, so this was a change. They had a small menu of snacks as well which were tempting but we waited until the dinner to eat. The bar had an understated elegance about it but also being laid back. It felt good to be sat in here. The waiter asked if I was enjoying the drink and I replied, “Yes, it’s a good introduction to Mescal as I am never really drinking it.” I was impressed with her professionalism, as she offered me some on the house and introduced us to their own ‘Kol Mescal’ putting a bottle of it on our table to look at.
At 9pm we were called for and escorted to our dinner upstairs. We were sat in the same spot as last year. If you don’t know already, it is notoriously hard to get a reservation here with ease. Even when the priority list of reservations gets released it’s unlikely you will have the table you want right away. With mixed reviews and opinions everywhere both online and off, I will give to you mine honestly. At the start everything was consistent, and it left me wondering what the next dish would taste like. They were showing us who they are and why they stood out in London. Some highlights:
Tamal Colado-Corn Custard- Pig’s trotter, radishes, kohlrabi, caviar. Kol’s take on a Tamal. I am not normally a fan of caviar being used carelessly in cookery, but on this dish, it did sway my opinion. It lifted the dish when you ate all the elements together. With a flavourful custard underneath, the slight richness of pig trotter coming through, and light fresh bites of radishes, kohlrabi. It was different, everything worked together and tasted particularly good.
Taco- Langoustine, smoked chilli, sea buckthorn. Served on a taco of course with the langoustine head on the side to squeeze the juice of the head onto it. The Langoustine was so sweet and wasn’t lost within any chilli. The taco was well balanced and delicious.
Nicotole- Peas, fermented onion custard, cleavers, chard, hawthorn blossoms.
I had never tasted heritage peas before, wow, they were special and the star of this dish.
The trout next was the weakest dish, completely underwhelming. Chalk stream trout, hemp, tulips, kelp. I didn’t want to finish it just for the sake of eating, so as much as I hate food waste I left it.
Kol then delivered what they considered as their ‘main course’ (Choosing between either Adobo or Carnitas) I just didn’t understand why they decided to implement it this way. Why not just follow the same path incorporating interesting Mexican and British ingredients with flair into some smaller well-defined dishes? The ‘do it yourself’ felt lazy and unrefined, coming with fresh tacos/condiments on the side to share and build. We chose the Adobo- Halibut, cabbage, rhubarb salsa and suddenly it was like we stepped into a completely different lower-level restaurant. Disrupting the flow and idea that was given to us right from the start.
Dessert- Nieve- Jalapeño, sorrel, mescal. It packed flavour and was prominent. Sharp of Jalapeño but fresh, and a clever combination.
Coyota- Oxeye daisy, gorse flower, rhubarb. A little niggle- It was hard to get my spoon in there. It was quite solid. But once I broke through the barrier, I surprisingly found myself going back for more. It wasn’t the most delicious thing I have ever eaten but I found myself appreciating the creation. I thought it was nice. But is that enough just to say it was ‘nice’?
Overall, I enjoyed the portion size and the lightness of all the food and for sure it deserves its star. However, for a one star the price is almost 2/3 stars. This I am sure has ruffled a few feathers and will continue to do so. We began to discuss price vs value and the next day we checked the price of some 3/2-star restaurants close by. Kol was almost coming in at the same cost. In all my years of dining, a three star has always been more expensive than two or one and from what I can remember it has always been this way. Not anymore it seems…
Having eaten here twice now, we don’t see any reason to return. It wasn’t out of this world and the price was not right for a one star. Go if you want to experience it, it won’t be a bad meal. You will have a good night, ruined when the bill comes! I am just not sure in the long term if this business model will be sustainable for everybody. How much continued repeat business will they have? It doesn’t matter so much for them, as their reservations are always full and sought after. Getting people in the doors and out.
