As a tourist I get overly excited by proper French bistros in small towns in France. I am not feeling the same way in London where many new openings are trying hard to replicate the real thing, we are obsessed with this kind of restaurant there. English people love French food, even if they don’t want to admit it and I love it too, there is nothing better than eating authentic, classic, French, bistro food in its proper location. This restaurant is a family business that started as a café three generations ago, opening in 1897 and then turned into a bistro in 1952 (Having been bought in 1927 by Joseph Ramboz and his wife Anna Paule). The focus here is on high quality local cuisine but there are specials and typical bistro dishes too. Think frog’s legs, the one and only Bresse AOC chickens, quenelles and much more. I heard that the dishes on the menu today haven’t changed, clearly stood the test of time, locals come here repeatedly for the same delicacies, and people from afar come to experience the place.
The dining room is impactful, it leaves an impression. Typically French, for me it was exciting. A huge basket of bread already arrived at the table, and an oversized menu with a picture of the restaurant on the front of it, I do like these little touches. Upon opening the menu, the first sight of all the local food and products meant you really were in Bourg-en-Bresse. You are getting authentic food here. It might not be inventive but when you stick to true classics executed well, there isn’t a lot to moan about. We started off with a plate of Serrano ham to share, whilst we waited, the portions are big and generous here.
It would make no sense at all not to choose the frog’s legs at a place like this. I went for them but in a demi portion (half portion) which were sautéed with chopped parsley. If you have never tried them before, don’t think about it, just order them, there is nothing to fear. Here they were cooked the classic way, there are lots of variations you can make but this is a good starting point. Absolutely tender throughout, and crisp on the outside, clearly cooked with butter (a non-negotiable) and some lemon for squeezing over the top. They were addictive and rich, however frog’s legs themselves are a useful source of protein amongst other vitamins! They are also a French delicacy. That doesn’t count though on this dish with all le beurre!
For my second course, I stayed true to the classics and ordered sole meunière with boiled potatoes. The fish was completely soft, tender, and prepared perfectly at the table. It might look like there is a lot of butter on this dish but surprisingly it didn’t taste greasy. It is miles ahead of what you might be offered in a 5-star hotel in London when you order this dish there. Here it was exactly how it should be, they have clearly had a lot of practise.
Cheese and dessert follow. What I have noticed in Bourg-en-Bresse particularly is the standard of their cheese, it is really on another level for a small town rivalling all the choice you would find in a capital city. There have been many times I have had a cheese board here and it trumps anything I have eaten anywhere; it’s a remarkably high standard. For dessert I noticed as I walked in there was a dessert section, and in this section, there was a very pretty looking Paris Brest that had my name all over it. This pastry had substance and confidence. The cream was well balanced, seriously flavourful and the choux was quality. It was larger than most Paris Brest that I have come across (I could only manage half) But it was an excellent one. This didn’t feel like your fancy patisserie in the palace hotels of Paris by the renowned pastry chefs residing there, but it had a home comfort about it, generous, hearty and giving.
As always it is a delight to discover new restaurants in France and it is even better when they deliver decent food. You can normally find a lot of places offering simple but precise, casual dishes, especially in smaller towns and cities or the countryside. Le Francais is one of these places.
