We already visited Core back in 2019 when it had two stars and wanted to come back since it gained three. It is always hard to get a reservation here, and not being good at booking several months in advance due to travel schedules, we luckily managed to get in quickly on a Friday late evening. Perfect for us. We can start by saying that it has stepped up a level and worthy of its three stars.
We started at their new Whiskey and Seaweed bar; we had a drink here then was shown through to the dining room. Upon reading the menu we opted for a la carte. I was pleased that the menu offered this as too many restaurants are delivering tasting menus only these days. My taste has changed from my younger years, I am now coming into a stage where I still want to eat quality dishes but on a smaller scale. Given the choice a la carte is always solid.
My first course lobster and spelt- Who would have thought spelt could taste so good? Presented in the shape of a crescent moon, it did not just look beautiful it tasted beautiful as well. With Fenland celery, caviar, and Selim pepper. The caviar was not wasted here. The broth had been treated and made with the utmost care. Delicate, flavourful, and well balanced. Lobster is always the main event, but a light shone brightly on the spelt. Every element on this dish was meant to be here. Elegance personified.
Cornish Turbot, cucumber, kelp, and oysters- Simple but with hidden complexity. The fish appeared to be glistening as it was presented to us at the table. We liked the fact there was not a huge amount of cream or butter in this dish. Staying true to a combination that works so well, a dish that appears to be simple, but far from it. Adoring the English flavours here and the emphasis on England itself.
Herdwick Lamb- This is the best lamb I have eaten all year. Simply spectacular. With Sheep’s curd, savoury and black cardamom. It is the type of dish you talk about years to come sticking in the back of your mind. The colours on the dish popped vividly and the presentation sublime which only added to the spectacle. Once again so elegant and precise but utterly ‘yummy’ at the same time. Lamb cooking at its absolute best, and not to mention the lamb product itself, which I am now calling the lamb of the vikings. How can I get this lamb and cook it at home?!
Core Apple- It was on the menu last time and it is here again. I understand the concept, but I missed a different texture in there. It was not my favourite, but it was still well made and executed. So, I cannot really say anything bad about it.
Core-teser- Core’s take on the malteser. I had it last time and took it again as my preference in the dessert section is to always choose chocolate or something other than fruit. I just do not know if it blew me away like the dishes before. It would be more surprising for the diner to have different desserts sometimes and switch it up a little. As a repeat guest it is good to try new things.
To summarise- Core has improved and elevated itself to three-star standard. One of our best in London to date. This is not a place that is trying to be overly creative and clever to the point it is meaningless. Every element on the plate has purpose and is meant to be on it. Perfect and precise, you could feel the chef’s presence in the food. And the fact that Clare is still in the kitchen speaks volumes.
The seasoning especially stood out to me, as it was absolutely bang on in every single element. It was spookily perfect, not one grain of salt too little or too much. I felt perfection here in the execution and combination of ingredients/textures. Staying true to Britain as well which struck a chord. On top of this everything was delicious and sophisticated.
A special mention to the sommelier- An interesting one. He was not just recommending to us the usual suspects or the most well-known wine makers. Of course, it would be far too easy to just suggest a Romanée-Conti. He took the time to choose and help us with a wine that was not so well known and not the most expensive. He introduced to us something that we had not tried before that was humbler and matched well with the dishes we chose. Professional, honest, and knowledgable. A unique character for this calibre of restaurant.
The service in the restaurant was attentive, warm, friendly, and relaxed but still professional in keeping with its standard. If you are going to choose a restaurant for a special occasion and one of the best in the capital, it is Core.
