As soon as I walked in here it was giving nods to Vespertine in Los Angeles, similar in approach, colours, and décor (A scaled back version). There was a sense of familiarity which I warmed to instantly, combined with a friendly welcome from front of house. The service was pleasant, a perfect combination to coincide with confident cookery- Delta know who they are, they have clearly grasped and maintained control over exactly what they are doing. They know where they are headed with every dish, setting themselves apart from others. I admired their effortless flair in unusual ideas, whilst revealing to us their identity. The chef is absolutely sure what he wants to deliver to the guest. I took it, understood it, and received it well.
The first taster was shaped like a clam shell made of potato; how did they make this look so real? A supreme distinctive crunch as you took your first bite. Well balanced and an intriguing start to the menu.
Next, an edible flower which wowed me when I saw it, this made a lot of sense. Normally you might look at this and think ‘gimmick’ and that is as far as it goes, but the taste and texture were alive and present on this.
Then we have a delicate scallop peeping at us from the outside of its casing, hiding, but at the same time ready to show itself. I liked the size of this- Precise and easy to pick up and eat. THIS is a tasting menu.
Three courses in and I am already enjoying myself at this restaurant, and what I did not mention yet that it is inside the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre. A cultural institution with a lot of things in one place. (Art, music, architecture, sculpture, to name a few) If you look around, you can see that it totally supports the ethos and vision of the cuisine. Everything is speaking to one another, moving together in unity.
Now the bread arrives and not to mention it would be unacceptable- Shaped as a mushroom and looking so realistic. This is a sourdough seasoned with aged vegetable paste and bone marrow. I also sampled the gluten free version, and I can name it as the best gluten free bread I have tried so far in any restaurant, and it even beat my own recipe! (I thought that mine was solid, but I now have some work to do) You could hardly notice it was gluten free, there is normally quite a good indication, but on this one you would have never even had known, it was seriously astounding… And Delta’s version of a gremolata was magnificent. This might be the only time I would accept bread as a course, this is a massive exception because it was a dish in its own right.
As we progressed into the larger courses, Delta continued to surprise us with their wizardry. The chef has a creative and fun mind, playing with your vision and changing what the diner may perceive, then messing with your senses in a profound way. You will not be bored here.
Speaking of no boredom- One dish that I really could appreciate the creativity on was the ‘feathery bird.’ It is one that can divide a crowd- Whether you like this or not, you cannot deny how brilliant this idea is. The bird is made with inoculated rice, filled with gently grilled sweetbreads and fresh lemon thyme, and served with a sauce of preserved vegetables and sea buckthorn oil. Yeah… It is a spectacle.
Ending briefly with the dessert- Unfortunately, this is where I found some weaknesses. For a 2-star restaurant more could have been done here in terms of execution. I found the chervil caterpillar not giving me enough ‘pastry section’ technique. Or I misunderstood, and this was just the pre dessert. Nevertheless…
The crispy sunflower was nailed in the presentation and the texture, it was a looker, a pleasure to receive, but I found the inside filling unbalanced, they could have offset with a caramel or something else as well. It needed it as the ratio of cream was too much and being their take on a mille-feuille this could include another ‘layer’ of flavour in here.
This cuisine made me stop and think- I understood completely what this place is all about, the technique, the process, all of it. There is space, room for this type of cuisine. It is different and it proudly has its own niche. The creativity is at the right level too. This was a discovery for sure and I cannot wait to see what they produce next, if/when they change the menu. This is an excellent restaurant, because the chef knows who he is and where he is going.
