A fantastic lunch option would be Connie and Ted’s. After being in the area for a spot of shopping, I was after something chef-driven and tasty, but I didn’t want to sit for hours tackling multiple courses and plates. I wanted a diner, or something in between: some fries, perhaps a slaw. We all had the craving for a lobster roll, so this was a huge part of why we came. I have often been disappointed by them. There isn’t enough meat, the lobster is overcooked, the brioche bun is naff, there isn’t enough butter; I could go on. It is not hard to put together, but the flaws and mistakes show themselves easily. Well, they do to me, not sure about anybody else. There are always two familiar styles: hot or cold. They both work, yet there is something about hot drawn butter seeping into lobster meat that the cold version cannot contend with. The cold one falls at its feet in comparison.
At Connie and Ted’s there is a large, dedicated kitchen space, open for all to see. Nothing is hidden, with the chefs in clear view. I could look at everything going on: it was clean, utilitarian, without going over the top. The staff looked serious about what they were knocking out of that pass. Because the food was fast on delivery, it gave the impression of a casual diner. I wasn’t sure what level was going to come my way, but seeing the brigade made it feel more upscale than the average eatery you might walk into somewhere else, asking for the exact same thing.
So what was this lobster roll actually like? It was one of the best I have eaten, because the meat was tender and substantial. It had been cooked by a pro, and this, to be frank, is the part you are paying the most attention to. There was just enough drawn butter, served at the correct temperature, all placed in a brioche bun and topped with some herbs. The chips were crispy, hot, with the skin on — all great — but the only item out of sync was the slaw. It could have been great, but it was too wet, almost swimming in its dressing. I didn’t finish it, pushing it to the side. “The ones you make are better than this,” said my guest. I looked right back at him and said, “The problem with this one is the dressing. It’s watery, and the dish doesn’t taste right. It hasn’t worked, unfortunately.”
America does have this talent for screwing up everything, especially the things that are far too simple. I just don’t know how they manage to ruin the things they touch, but it happens often. Take, for example, the pasta at Jon & Vinny’s — wrecked — and the lobster salad at Wally’s — ruined. They can never just leave it alone, or know when to stop and restrain themselves. Slaw is their thing, so how did it end up this way? For all that, Connie and Ted’s is the kind of place to return to when you just want a quick lunch, somewhere that asks very little of you as a guest. Whether you want fish, seafood, raw or cooked, salads, chowder, you name it, you will definitely find something worth eating here; just pick wisely.
