“Do you like it?” asked the chef.
“I do, very much.”
“How did you hear of us?”
“Well, that is a very good question.” I stopped and took a pause.
“Let’s say I had not, so to speak, but we know the region well.”
And that is me being honest; I don’t class myself as a ‘know-it-all’. But obviously, I looked briefly before coming to Clos De Sens, which was a discovery where I get excited to step foot into another 3-star restaurant in France. Ask me what it is I love to do, and I will tell you it’s this. I get butterflies in my stomach, wondering what the experience will be. But also thinking every time, is this going to be worth its award? Don’t expect too much, will you?
In 2023, it was taken under a new wing. I did not visit before, so I can’t compare to the long-standing previous chef; this is a whole new life of a restaurant. It’s a definite 3-star (let’s get that out the way early on). However, I would like to point out some criticism constructively from the view of the diner—in this case, me. Gone are my days of richness, heaviness, being too full, not able to pull through an entire menu because there is too much cream and butter everywhere. Clos De Sens is on the right track in its vegetal sphere; if only everybody would cook with one light fish and the rest vegetables, it would be much easier to consume. Saying this, I did find some of the sauces too rich, which in tandem then masks the products they want to show off. On top of that, when it came to the fera (which was world-class), it was left half-finished on the plate and spoiled because of it. The whole menu could do with a shuffle around—bring this closer to the beginning, not right at the end.
On a Friday, we were told it would be nine courses only, which no complaints or remarks were made; it’s vegetables and one fish mainly, light! But the surprise of the richness in some of the sauces could be replaced with more broths and consommés. The orchard snail made me realise I hadn’t come across the best ones yet (it was my dish of the night). The mushroom architecture thought it was being impactful, towering over us, but if you make it smaller, it’s going to show up much more dramatically. Less is more. Allow us to taste, not struggle.
The peas in the savoury course (also used in dessert) were just magnificent, but they were stomped on and killed by the ‘broth’. Those peas were now deceased. Here is an example of where a lighter one coming in would lift them delicately to their highest capability. But where the sauce did triumph was in the cabbage press with wild garlic. Who would have thought this green could change my life? What a dish…
We got up to walk before cheese and dessert to stretch the legs; there is a patio where you can stand outside for some air. I needed it as I was full! No time for that because we need to talk about the cheese trolley. It is one of the best, if not THE best, still alive today. The quality of every individual cheese sat on there was perfectly curated with each producer. It is hard to believe these guys are not crazy about it. The temperature it was served at contributed to that brilliance. Wow, wow, wow.
Dessert to end, which followed the same path as the savoury, but I found far too much acidity for my palate within the pea. I knew I wasn’t getting chocolate, but that was perfectly fine! I understood where I was and what I was eating. With some exceptional highs from the food, discreet and easy-flowing service, and an interior decor that is dated yet works well in the chalet style, I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know this restaurant. I loved having almost zero meat (there was just a deer crudité at the start), not to mention a wine list at a reasonable price. It’s nice for once not to be hammered by the markup. My only gripe was too much richness where it wasn’t needed; I am absolutely sure this is what was making me so full, and if I imagine those products in an even lighter world, I am afraid at how elevated they would appear! We must not hide them—reveal all their glory, because you have a bounty every chef could only dream of…
