From the same people behind Yard Bird, we discovered this next door as we made our way there. Relatively new and just opened, Always Joy offers a seasonal izakaya. You can prop up at the bar for full interaction or mind your own business, taking a seat away from the theatre. I was expecting nothing less than cool from this group (they are the kings of cool, to be exact), and the food clearly comes from chefs who know what they are doing. You are not walking into the unknown; it’s reliable, solid eating, with texture, flavour, balance—deliciousness—it has it all. You can waltz in for one or two things and leave, but because it was my first visit, I couldn’t go without discovering a steady flow of dishes.
Visually, the menu draws you in with its yellow ‘stickers’. “Always Joy” sits at the very top, and you work your way down from small to large plates. I had a hard time choosing, as I liked the sound of almost everything—the ingredients used, the way the dishes potentially pulled together as I imagined them in my head before even ordering. And yes, as the menu states, all items are limited: once they are gone, they are gone. The fish cake sandwich was sold on the most incredible bread, the crumb texture demanding to be seen. Don’t worry—we noticed you. “This is just so tasty; it says it’s a sandwich, but you may as well call it a burger,” I observed while enjoying the first half of it. Intricate layers are at work here, each analysed and perfected to ensure successful bites, making it impossible not to go back for more.
I did order too much, as I couldn’t finish that fish cake sandwich burger extravaganza—but this is the downside of ordering widely: you want to try everything but can’t possibly finish. (Thank God for takeaway boxes, hey?) Waste not, want not. The Katsuo bonito was faultless in its preparation—no chewy areas, smooth to eat. High-quality products are laid out before you, which is over half of the work already completed. Wrapping the lettuce around the mushroom spring roll, dipping it into the pineapple ponzu, enabling that first satisfying crunch of the pastry, followed by a look of satisfaction on your face, this is what they aim to do here: satisfy their diners. Seasonal and fresh are just two words tied to their philosophy, but they do have great importance. Without them, you can’t even start to achieve great-tasting plates.
There was nothing I did not like—and that is a compliment. One thing to note is the gluten situation. If you have an allergy, or you’re not eating raw, you won’t have the same experience as others, as gluten appears throughout (soy sauce, tempura, bread, spring roll pastry, etc.). It becomes difficult to fully grasp the menu if you are limited to rice and salad only. Just something to keep in mind. And no, there is no gluten-free bread—sorry to say. Whether for a quick bite or a longer dinner, it’s open late, which is always useful. Yard Bird and Always Joy are two of my Hong Kong favourites and regular haunts.
