MO bar and grill, steak

Mandarin Bar & Grill

Hong Kong

"It was a sad, sad loaf"

"Too expensive for what is given, with too many components falling short"

21 September, 2025

This can be a good addition to a hotel, if it is done well. A grill or steakhouse is somewhere people often return to for a simple piece of meat cooked to their preference, with sides, sauces and something sweet to finish. Be it a Saturday, Sunday or even Monday, there isn’t a day of the week when this doesn’t work (unless you are sticking to eating meat once a week, which is often what I do).

I came here a few years back when they still held one star, but unfortunately, they lost it in 2024. I only realised this as I sat down and noticed the Michelin plaques on the wall. Eh oh… Was this a bad sign? We were about to find out.

The feeling around me did suggest change; it felt different, though I wasn’t quite sure why yet. It could have been anything. An introduction in the form of an amuse‑bouche gave us some clues: it was far too big — complete overkill. Was this the first one they had ever made? Make it dainty, make it nice. It was also overfilled, a cone too heavy to hold, and you could already see there was far too much going on. It lacked logic.

The bread wasn’t the best — seeded on top but sticky, making it difficult to eat, your fingers ending up slightly tacky as you tried. And even when you succeeded, it was all for what? It wasn’t worth the struggle. I love bread, and I bake a lot myself. This was poorly executed; there was no happiness inside. It was a sad, sad loaf.

Let’s move on to what we came for — the steak, the grill experience. The meat was okay. The sauces, minus the béarnaise, were delicious, but the béarnaise itself should never have been sent out. It wasn’t acceptable. Don’t joke around with the French mother sauces — nail your hollandaise first, then move on. Back to basics. The chips were thick and crispy, though pomme allumette would have done the trick instead. The mac and cheese was just alright, like everything else. That was about it for the savoury. Average.

Mo bar and grill, sauces

And then there’s the pricing — wackily high, and it has to be mentioned. I have no issue paying when something is worth its salt, but I do when things don’t add up, which is only reasonable.

Dessert only added to this expensive outing, and at the very least, better thought and technique were expected. There was no need to add flour; this could have been made gluten‑free and light. Nothing on the menu catered for that, and here was their opportunity to make some guests happier. The soufflé had an old‑fashioned mindset — heavy, poorly carried, and lacking lightness.

Mo bar and grill, souffle

Unfortunately, it’s now clear why they were unable to retain their star. It is too expensive for what is given, with too many components falling short.

“Fulfilment lies in presence- Eat, experience, feel. Leaving the scoring, rating, and reviewing at the door.”