I was lucky enough to devise my own menu on this trip and asked the chef to cook some classic French food in the comfort of our hotel. I have a soft spot for the classics, and this was a brilliant way to have exactly what we wanted tailor made to our preferences. The dinners took place over the space of four nights, each consisting of a starter, main and dessert, all being strictly French (because we were in Paris after all.) The chef agreed to make everything I asked for and all without gluten. (Which can be a challenge when dealing with pastry.) I couldn’t wait to see how the chef interpreted the dishes, but the one thing that I didn’t want was super gastronomy, this I made clear, we wanted French, simple dishes, but made to an excellent standard.
Our first feast consisted of a starter of cheese gougere and langoustine salad. The gluten free gougeres were a triumph, the langoustine sweet, tender, and soft. Just perfect- A great adaptation of this salad.
Next for main course- Rouget a la tomate (Red mullet and tomatoes) Excellent cookery on the mullet, simple, clean, and precise with a good product here. The tomato part of the dish was served on the side, brimming with flavour within a medley of vegetables, tomatoes, and herbs.
For dessert I asked for marble cake, and the gluten free version was not bad at all. It brings back memories for me as a child. This one was not dry at all with a nice contrast with the glaze on the top.
Feast two was an exciting menu for us, I asked for a starter of lobster bisque, it was delicious with such a deep depth of lobster flavour in the sauce, topped with some extra lobster for texture. A promising start for what was to follow.
Which was a Bouillabaisse. And what a standout one this was. Every element had been thought about, and the chef had made sure to take care paying attention to detail. Every piece of fish in here was cooked perfectly, the potatoes prepped correctly, a pleasant shape and texture, also cooked well. Your knife could pass through with the exact amount of resistance. The rouille on the side was complementing the flavours of the whole dish and the soup part was beautifully made. I kept going back in for more, because this dish was an enormous success, and should be included in their own menu! Very satisfying indeed and impactful.
It only got better with the crème brûlée for dessert. I had to choose this because it still stands as one of my favourites. The perfect blowtorching on the top, the sugar scorched to the right point. The texture below smooth across your palate, sweet, and generously filled with vanilla. It was exactly how I like my crème brûlée.
Feast three I was really looking forward to, I have not eaten snails all that much and I decided to be brave and ask for snails a la Bourguignonne to start. I am so glad that I did. Each snail was doused with a garlicky, herby butter, we all know that butter always improves everything! But butter is meant to be in here, it would be a crime to try to substitute, it would be a waste of time. The snails were still piping hot when they reached me, no chewiness. Meaty, full of goodness (If it wasn’t for the butter) If you didn’t try snails already, do give them a chance.
The main course for this night was unfortunately a big disappointment, it’s a shame as we were doing so well with the consistency. Two words- Steak, Frites. I always find that when I make this at home, it’s so simple that everything will be seen good and bad. For a start, the steak was mediocre, burnt in areas, the product seeming low level for an entrecôte. The fries were not crispy at all, like they had only been fried once and were not cooked. I asked the kitchen to bring some more but this time crispy and what arrived were now a portion that were more than golden brown and burnt, leaving this unpleasant taste in your mouth. And some still not cooked enough. Clearly the skill was not present on this. The béarnaise sauce to go with the meal was watery and runny. There was a different chef tonight perhaps.
We ended things on a slightly better note with the Mont Blanc dessert. A delicate base of meringue, layers of chestnut, cream, and a fruit element in the middle to cut through. I enjoyed this version, but it would be the only time I would say, “Please make it bigger!” We asked for one to share but this was too small.
And last but not least- Feast Four. When you ask the chef to make a pate en croute gluten free, it might be a mistake, but this one rivalled anything I have eaten in gluten form. The pastry was outstanding, it didn’t even fall apart, holding it shape as if it was made with gluten. The filling inside was spot on creating the right balance of each texture, the jelly just the right amount and for my preference it was not too ‘gamey’ and strong. Sometimes it can be really French with all-sorts inside that will put off a British person forever! I couldn’t quite believe that it was gluten free, so I phoned the kitchen to double check. It was, I was so surprised.
This might be the best feast out of them all, for my main course I could not forget about frog’s legs. The chef had spent a lot of time prepping these, taking them painstakingly off their tiny bones and dividing them in the dish. I admired the work here and the ideas, and not only that you could enjoy the legs in their entirety without having to struggle. The taste and texture of the legs were very enjoyable this way, the meaty sauce bringing everything together as one. An impressive take on a classic.
The last dessert in this special series is the humble raspberry tart. It’s a classic for a reason and always does the trick for me. Another gluten free version that is a winner, you could hardly tell it had no gluten inside. The base resembled that of a buttery sable, tart raspberries sitting pretty on the base off set with a sweet vanilla type of cream, adorned with edible flowers for looks, with another element of raspberry inside, akin to a coulis or a gel. It is all simple to make in terms of pastry work, but delicious.
I really enjoyed devising my own menus and felt fortunate to have something personal over four nights. I hope to do this again the next time I return to Mandarin Oriental Paris, the chef really stepped up to the plate. Merci chef!
