I must admit that it was my first-time dining at L’ambroisie. “Where have you been?” I hear you say. I have wanted to go for a while, but never seemed to have got around to it, so I was delighted having managed to snag a table less than a few weeks in advance. The dining room transports you back to another time, sitting in deep rooted French history, appreciating the intricate details within the décor that surrounded us. I particularly took a shine to the chandelier with heads on it protruding out at us. I saw here an old school French service yet bringing their own unique style to the table, this way it did not feel outdated and stuffy. The menu was only in French which I did not mind as it gave me a chance to translate and immerse myself fully into the L’ambroisie experience. Place des Vosges is stunning, a visit alone being worthwhile.
As a perfectly executed bowl of petits legumes were put down beside me, within my first bite I knew we were about to experience a gift from the gods. If you are expecting reinvention and modernity this will not be the place for you. Each one of these vegetables so simple in look sitting there humbly on the plate managed to leave us feeling beyond amazed. “It’s going to be a good night” we said. Something to take into consideration, there is no tasting menu here, a la carte only, being simplified ensuring you focus on the quality they deliver not quantity. By all means if you want more food, you can just order more dishes.
The start- Chaud-froid d’œuf mollet aux asperges, emulsion de cresson, caviar kristal. The emulsion stood out significantly here as the star of the dish, of course egg and caviar are a typical combination, but in the hands of the L’ambroisie chef it is reaching a higher perfection. The watercress emulsion surprisingly bringing punch with the caviar.
Feuillantine de langoustines aux graines de sesame, sauce curry: A langoustine so generous in portion and size, and evidence of a superior product, sat between thin layers of sesame tuille, spinach and an extremely well-balanced curry sauce. One of the best langoustines I have had the pleasure of eating.
Extra course- Filets de saint-pierre aux coquillages et fenouils, sauce safran: Sublime, beautifully cooked John Dory fillets, small delicate cockles nestled within fennel and saffron sauce. This is classic French cooking at the very top. Delicious but also noticeable perfect technique.
Main For 2- Cote de veau double glacée au jus, morilles au vin jaune: Oh, my goodness the morels… There are some usual suspects out there trying to cook morels and thinking they are doing it well, they need to stop, get on the Eurostar, and take a masterclass here. This is the the true way to eat them, accompanied with a special milk fed cote de veau, confit garlic, shallot and the big bold jus smacking me in the lips. It is just incredibly satisfying food demanding the utmost precision.
Cheese- As you would expect here, a top-notch cheese trolley.
Dessert- It is known to be the best in Paris: Tarte fine sablée au cacao amer, crème glacée a la vanille bourbon. Yes, it is very classic, and you could argue that this is something we have seen before many times, but when you are reaching this level in pastry, it is unforgettable. Such a pleasant amount of vanilla in the ice cream, very sweet, the way I like it and the tart with its ever so crunchy edges enclosed with a generous amount of filling light as air, ensuring that you can finish it all and not feel like you have to be escorted out in a wheel chair at the end of the night.
L’ambroisie is an institution for a reason and as long as this continues to exist, I will keep going back. This is not just classic food; it is classic food with soul, passion and the restaurant have a consciousness to deliver only the best. They know who they are and do not need to change. Please do not because I cannot wait to experience this food again.
