Peking Duck At Man Wah
Here’s hoping they read this and take immediate action, because I have just declared an emergency.
Specifically, from Beijing, and known for its super-thin, crispy skin, I wanted to enjoy Peking duck whilst in Hong Kong. Dietary requirements are a lot of fun and games here: soy sauce is everywhere, gluten is a strong force in the prep, ingredients, and implementation of many Asian dishes, so it was a challenge—first to pick where I wanted to eat it and second to find out whether they could make it gluten free. I luckily don’t have any allergies to be mindful of, but I often have guests who need to be extra careful. Seeing as we had already eaten at Man Wah restaurant (and it was good), I came up with the idea to pre-order and ask if they could do it there, gluten free.
The first answer was no, but I persisted and, by giving the kitchen advanced warning, they did agree to do it. So, here we were—back in the same spot, especially for this. The tableside theatre began and the duck appeared whole, ready to be carved right in front of us. The skin is always what stands out most, not necessarily the meat. It came in two sequences, and the condiments were classic alongside a modern interpretation.
I like tradition, so the cucumber batons do it for me every time. You could see the concentration on the young man’s face as he separated the skin for the first encounter. Apparently, the reason you place the skin onto crackers before serving is to reduce the amount of grease—they soak up the excess. Can I still eat the crackers? Maybe. But do I want to? Not sure.
No meat in sight so far, and considering the entire Peking duck is revealed, this seemed skimpy to me. The second course ironed out this noticeable flaw—but not in the way I thought. The meat of the duck was not very pleasant to eat: tough and dry, thrown into a bowl, and appearing to be a waste of time. No slices, no skin with those slices—just measly, smallish pieces that could have been anything. Texture-wise, it reminded me of overboiled meat. And you wouldn’t know it was Peking duck, particularly. We all agreed that it was disappointing and missing so much of what makes it special. They can do better than this. Here’s hoping they read this and take immediate action, because I have just declared an emergency.
La Reine Gourmande is a professionally trained chef, former dancer, and lifelong food obsessive with a deep passion for haute cuisine and global gastronomy. She has dined her way through the world’s top restaurants while honing her culinary skills at L’École Ferrandi in Paris and the Ashburton Cookery School in the UK. Blending her love for food and fashion, she offers a unique perspective on what to eat — and what to wear — on your next culinary adventure.
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