Noi is a two‑star Michelin restaurant in the Four Seasons hotel in Hong Kong. Taking our seats at a curved, lounge‑style table facing the open kitchen, we waited for the curtain to rise. In Hong Kong, it is not unusual for hotels to house some of the best restaurants in the city. Me not usually being a fan of the Four Seasons (I am team Mandarin Oriental), I wasn’t sure I was going to be happy. The atmosphere here tends to be cold and impersonal, but, like everything, you need to give people a chance, so I kept an open mind. An aperitif eased us into the celebratory night, ready to take in all that Noi had to offer. Show us what you’ve got.
You cannot shy away from the excellent products; we had a conversation about them as they were brought over to our table. I love this — warming us up with an indication of what was to follow, using our eyes and our noses, the senses awakening. Visually, if you are as obsessed as I am with products, you are going to adore this part. You’ve got good caviar in front of you, shellfish to the stars, and an abundance of Japanese and Asian influences in the fruits and vegetables — some top‑notch seasonal stuff. I was so excited to begin and wondering how they were going to let loose every one of these ingredients and make them fly.
Let’s just say it wasn’t hard for them to do. What’s interesting is taking Japan and merging it with European elements. The thing is, they say it’s an Italian concept, which is about right; however, Asia is the central focal point. Think of an omakase, but bringing something slightly different. For example, Sicilian tuna working alongside Japanese sea urchin and caviar, all intertwined and sitting on a straight‑to‑the‑point dashi jelly. Faultless simplicity that gives you more than you bargained for. I wanted another, and it was only the first course. This is a clear example of the best products used wisely.
The guys here are serious — heads down, no smiling, concentration in full swing. They aren’t here to stroke your ego (if you have one), and you are not here to stroke theirs (don’t suck up and be annoying). They are getting on with it, setting out to deliver top‑level cuisine.
For the pasta, it didn’t come close to the Capitaneo brothers in Milan — they set the bar — whereas here it wasn’t that memorable.
The pigeon was excellent, but the skin wasn’t crispy, which meant the dish was lacking for me. The Brittany blue lobster, however, cleverly won its right of place, being the best hot dish of the evening.
Dessert started with one flavour leading into another, but the texture divided the table — not everybody enjoyed it. Dessert needs to leave you wanting more, and this didn’t do that. And where the hell was the cheese? They don’t get it. We want cheese in a two‑star — a banquette, roll out the trolley! Ah, but no. They are dead in this generation.
The fun personality of the kitchen came through more towards the end, with Star Wars referenced in the whiskey jellies— a great idea, and one we haven’t seen anyone else do.
A couple of quibbles. The headphones — or earpieces, whatever they are — I find ridiculous. You aren’t bodyguards. I come across the odd restaurant (very rarely) that has this, and I always bring it up: it doesn’t look good.
It was also a shame that the chef left and didn’t stay until the very end, walking out of the front door, in full view, before I had even received my dessert. Especially as it wasn’t through the back. We all agreed it looked unprofessional. Yep, we do notice these things.
There are always pros and cons in every restaurant somewhere along the line, unless you are perfect and have thought about every detail. Still, the food and experience were very much at the two‑star level it deserves. The night was an important one for me personally, which made it even more special. Hopefully, see you again soon.
