I could not stay away from here for long… After the previous visit I made it the mission to get in again on my return to Paris. We instantly became recognised, and our service went up a notch even more this time around- An extra dish was offered and overall, (If it is possible) this visit was even better than the first. An important dish to take and to order in advance is the spectacular poulet de Bresse, coming in two parts. If it is being offered on the menu, do not look past it. I was surprised to see around the dining room that not a lot of diners had cottoned onto this. Phone the restaurant and pre order, this is what you should be eating at this fine establishment.
Those moreish gougeres were placed down onto the table once more, my hand swooped down into the bowl in a flash and I devoured one in seconds. Then to start and without asking, a first course of foie gras appeared, this was a gesture that did not go unnoticed, and obviously it was flawless.
It has been a while since I became so emotional about a dish, but this one completely got me. As I took my first bite, I turned to my guest and did not know what to say, shaking my head from side to side in disbelief proclaiming- “How can it be?” This a high-level interpretation of the floating island, topped with some of the best black truffle I ever did see- Super large substantial slices, how it should smell and taste. Had we been fooled all these years devouring black truffle everywhere else? This is seriously the best and this dish almost brought a tear to my eye.
One word about sweetbread now- This is one of the best preparations and executions of this product you will find. If you have never eaten it before, start here before you go anywhere else for it. In the UK, we are so far behind this for example.
The Bresse chicken came next in two parts, and it was automatically making me think of Georges Blanc and his chicken in Vonnas, we are on the same playing field here. A beautifully rich jus dominated the plate, the skin of the chicken melting but still crisp and working with the cuisson of the bird, the salsify belonged here sat in its rightful place, an absolutely perfect companion. This is serious business everybody…
The second part (the drumsticks) look so simple in the cookery but do not underestimate them, topped with some frisée type of salad. I must admit that I was becoming quite full and could not finish this, but what I could do was appreciate every single bit in front of me. It was time for a round of applause.
We took the soufflé this time for dessert, and the kitchen sent as well the tarte fine sable au cacao amer, with their knockout vanilla ice cream (We took it last time) We did not ask for it, which was another kind gesture from the team. I love this solid, French classical style of cookery and L’ambroisie hits me in all the right places. After a second visit a few months on, I can tell you that it has not lost its charm. The world is moving at a fast pace, and change can happen in the blink of an eye. This is why it is always a clever idea to revisit your favourite restaurants because it might not be the same as you remember it. L’ambroisie does not have this issue it seems, and as I said before, please do not change. See you soon our precious friends.
